The Blue Mosque Turkey was always on the top of my “To Go” list and when I saw tickets for $550 roundtrip on Turkish airlines, I immediately jumped on them. The country didn’t fail to impress. A week felt too short for this amazing country and as I was boarding my plane to return to the States, I vowed I would return again.
DESTINATIONS: the number one suggestion I wish someone – whether someone who had traveled there before, a guidebook or online blogs – had recommended for travel around Turkey was to get to Istanbul and go visit a travel agency. Usually I am not one for travel agencies; however, if you have a short time as we did and want to max out as many top locations in Turkey as possible, a local travel agent will help set up the accommodation, tours, and transportation and bypass the trouble of dealing with the logistical planning.
We booked roundtrip flights from Istanbul to Izmir in order to see Ephesus. We skipped Cappadocia because all the guide books and blogs said it was not a good place to go to in February. However, upon arrival in Istanbul, the locals had a different version to tell. Not making it to Cappadocia is one of my biggest regrets on my trip to Turkey. What I had recommended to my friend who followed just a week later, was to go to the travel agent and ask to be set up on a 3 day tour. They booked her and her friend on a 3 day tour of Cappadocia and Ephesus with accommodation, transportation and meals all included.
ISTANBUL: there is so much to say about Istanbul. You could stay a week in this city and still find things to do. We went in February when it was chillier but not uncomfortable. Summers are hot; however, the cafes and restaurants along the Bosphorus open up for the summer party time. From what I am told, Istanbul becomes one big party during the summer. Though we missed out on that aspect, we were able to take advantage of few tourists and avoiding the unbearable heat of the summer.
ACCOMODATION: someone recommended Med Cezir Hotel to us and in a “pay it forward” measure, I pass along this recommendation as the place to stay. The small, family run hotel, is perfectly located Sultanahmet walking distance from the major sights including the Blue Mosque and Grand Bazaar. The nephew (Toni) of the hotel owner grew up in Brooklyn and was the perfect liaison for us. The family was incredibly helpful and made us feel at home. Each night as we stumbled back from a long day of sightseeing and extended night of partying, a family member working the late night desk would welcome us back “home” and wish us a good night. Do yourself and your wallet a favor and stay here. And tell Toni, I say hi.
DESTINATIONS: the number one suggestion I wish someone – whether someone who had traveled there before, a guidebook or online blogs – had recommended for travel around Turkey was to get to Istanbul and go visit a travel agency. Usually I am not one for travel agencies; however, if you have a short time as we did and want to max out as many top locations in Turkey as possible, a local travel agent will help set up the accommodation, tours, and transportation and bypass the trouble of dealing with the logistical planning.
We booked roundtrip flights from Istanbul to Izmir in order to see Ephesus. We skipped Cappadocia because all the guide books and blogs said it was not a good place to go to in February. However, upon arrival in Istanbul, the locals had a different version to tell. Not making it to Cappadocia is one of my biggest regrets on my trip to Turkey. What I had recommended to my friend who followed just a week later, was to go to the travel agent and ask to be set up on a 3 day tour. They booked her and her friend on a 3 day tour of Cappadocia and Ephesus with accommodation, transportation and meals all included.
ISTANBUL: there is so much to say about Istanbul. You could stay a week in this city and still find things to do. We went in February when it was chillier but not uncomfortable. Summers are hot; however, the cafes and restaurants along the Bosphorus open up for the summer party time. From what I am told, Istanbul becomes one big party during the summer. Though we missed out on that aspect, we were able to take advantage of few tourists and avoiding the unbearable heat of the summer.
ACCOMODATION: someone recommended Med Cezir Hotel to us and in a “pay it forward” measure, I pass along this recommendation as the place to stay. The small, family run hotel, is perfectly located Sultanahmet walking distance from the major sights including the Blue Mosque and Grand Bazaar. The nephew (Toni) of the hotel owner grew up in Brooklyn and was the perfect liaison for us. The family was incredibly helpful and made us feel at home. Each night as we stumbled back from a long day of sightseeing and extended night of partying, a family member working the late night desk would welcome us back “home” and wish us a good night. Do yourself and your wallet a favor and stay here. And tell Toni, I say hi.
Hagia Sofia SIGHTS:
Blue Mosque: the Sultanahmet Camii is a magnificent building with six graceful minarets that overlook the Sea of Marmara, the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. The mosque dominates the skyline of the old city creating some of the best photos of the city.
Hagia Sofia: the former Orthodox patriarchal basilica, later a mosque, and now a museum. Here you can see the mixing of Christianity and Islam all in one building.
Basilica Cistern: the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. The cistern was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Absolutely stunning to see and if you go during the summer, a cool reprieve from the heat.
Topkapi Palace: the palace has beautiful mosaics and beautiful views of the Bosphorus and the city.
Cagaloglu Hamam: don’t miss out on going to a Turkish bath, known as a hamam. The Cagaloglu is one of the oldest and most famous. A spa appointment that will cost you around 50 euros is worth every penny. While lying on clean, smooth granite stones, you will be scrubbed and washed until you are as clean and smooth as a baby. I can’t remember the last time I was that clean.
Beyoğlu: the neighborhood is considered a hip one with many students hanging out at the cafes and bars. Here you can find cheap restaurants and cool bars. Walk the main street, Istiklal Street, which is lively and always crowded with people. Further reading: Budget Travel Magazine: Beyoglu Nightlife
The Grand Bazaar: shopper’s mecca. But even if you aren’t a fan of shopping, the Grand Bazaar is still a site to see. Plan to spend an entire day in the Grand Bazaar area. Get there in the morning and browse the sections. Note: the sections are split up into departments of what they sell: gold, rugs, souvenirs, ceramics, etc. Most guide books will have the breakdown. I recommend you come with a half empty suitcase because you’ll be wanting to take back a lot. Right outside the bazaar walls are doner kebab stands selling delicious doner for about 2 euros.
Blue Mosque: the Sultanahmet Camii is a magnificent building with six graceful minarets that overlook the Sea of Marmara, the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. The mosque dominates the skyline of the old city creating some of the best photos of the city.
Hagia Sofia: the former Orthodox patriarchal basilica, later a mosque, and now a museum. Here you can see the mixing of Christianity and Islam all in one building.
Basilica Cistern: the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. The cistern was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Absolutely stunning to see and if you go during the summer, a cool reprieve from the heat.
Topkapi Palace: the palace has beautiful mosaics and beautiful views of the Bosphorus and the city.
Cagaloglu Hamam: don’t miss out on going to a Turkish bath, known as a hamam. The Cagaloglu is one of the oldest and most famous. A spa appointment that will cost you around 50 euros is worth every penny. While lying on clean, smooth granite stones, you will be scrubbed and washed until you are as clean and smooth as a baby. I can’t remember the last time I was that clean.
Beyoğlu: the neighborhood is considered a hip one with many students hanging out at the cafes and bars. Here you can find cheap restaurants and cool bars. Walk the main street, Istiklal Street, which is lively and always crowded with people. Further reading: Budget Travel Magazine: Beyoglu Nightlife
The Grand Bazaar: shopper’s mecca. But even if you aren’t a fan of shopping, the Grand Bazaar is still a site to see. Plan to spend an entire day in the Grand Bazaar area. Get there in the morning and browse the sections. Note: the sections are split up into departments of what they sell: gold, rugs, souvenirs, ceramics, etc. Most guide books will have the breakdown. I recommend you come with a half empty suitcase because you’ll be wanting to take back a lot. Right outside the bazaar walls are doner kebab stands selling delicious doner for about 2 euros.
Spice Bazaar The Spice Bazaar: almost as amazing as the Grand Bazaar, I loved strolling through this smaller shopping area filled with spices, teas, nuts and dried fruit. The spices are freshly ground that morning and include your traditional ones such as tumeric, black pepper, etc as well as mixed spices made by the spice seller. Saffron is another popular spice to buy at the bazaar, but beware that real saffron is the Iranian saffron and can cost over $100 for a small amount. I came home with a packet of hot pepper spice as well as a mixture that Turks use on their salads. The sellers will air tight seal them, which allows you to travel through custom with the packages (be careful if the package opens before returning to the U.S.; you may not be allowed to bring it through customs).
Tea is another popular item to buy at the bazaar and you can find fresh, natural tea ready for brewing. I got the traditional Turkish tea, which I love, but my friends also got some apple tea (which is a must try in Turkey) made from real dried apples and a tea mixture called Love Tea, which was a combination of dried roses, apples, oranges, jasmine flower, and some other items. The tea was incredible but was also the most expensive.
The bazaar is also a great place to get some Turkish delights. There are two kinds: made from sugar and made from honey. The ones made from sugar are cheaper, and while still delicious, do not compete with the ones made from honey that usually encompass nuts and dried fruit. At each of the stalls in the bazaar, you can always sample some freshly homemade Turkish delight.
The area around the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar is also just fun to walk around and explore. Try a freshly made juice made from pomegranates, oranges, and grapefruit.
Rüstem Pasa Mosque: located near the Grand Bazaar, this mosque is completely covered with mosaics. Absolutely beautiful to see.
Chora Church: I didn’t manage to go, but it was recommended to me by a friend who said it was a gem. It’s a small church, with frescos in Orthodox spirituality. Also, interesting to have a (quick) glimpse of the neighborhood where it’s located – Fatih district looks more like Eastern Anatolia or Tehran than Istanbul’s usual tourist image.
Bosphorus: regardless of the season, you should take a boat ride on the Bosphorus. However, dependent on that season, the time of that boat ride varies. In the summer time when the heat is blistering hot and the roofdeck of a moving boat sound fantastic, a half day or full day tour up the Bosphorus are well worth it. The tours go up the river and stop in small fishing villages that have fresh fish sandwiches and ice cream. In the winter, however, many of those villages are near deserted and shut down. The weather makes it too cold to be sitting on top of the deck of a ship and the insides don't give great viewings. Further, many of the water front properties along the Bosphorus are closed until summer. During this period, I recommend just hopping on one of the ferries that take you from the European side to the Asian side. Inexpensive, and a good way to say you were in both.
Tea is another popular item to buy at the bazaar and you can find fresh, natural tea ready for brewing. I got the traditional Turkish tea, which I love, but my friends also got some apple tea (which is a must try in Turkey) made from real dried apples and a tea mixture called Love Tea, which was a combination of dried roses, apples, oranges, jasmine flower, and some other items. The tea was incredible but was also the most expensive.
The bazaar is also a great place to get some Turkish delights. There are two kinds: made from sugar and made from honey. The ones made from sugar are cheaper, and while still delicious, do not compete with the ones made from honey that usually encompass nuts and dried fruit. At each of the stalls in the bazaar, you can always sample some freshly homemade Turkish delight.
The area around the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar is also just fun to walk around and explore. Try a freshly made juice made from pomegranates, oranges, and grapefruit.
Rüstem Pasa Mosque: located near the Grand Bazaar, this mosque is completely covered with mosaics. Absolutely beautiful to see.
Chora Church: I didn’t manage to go, but it was recommended to me by a friend who said it was a gem. It’s a small church, with frescos in Orthodox spirituality. Also, interesting to have a (quick) glimpse of the neighborhood where it’s located – Fatih district looks more like Eastern Anatolia or Tehran than Istanbul’s usual tourist image.
Bosphorus: regardless of the season, you should take a boat ride on the Bosphorus. However, dependent on that season, the time of that boat ride varies. In the summer time when the heat is blistering hot and the roofdeck of a moving boat sound fantastic, a half day or full day tour up the Bosphorus are well worth it. The tours go up the river and stop in small fishing villages that have fresh fish sandwiches and ice cream. In the winter, however, many of those villages are near deserted and shut down. The weather makes it too cold to be sitting on top of the deck of a ship and the insides don't give great viewings. Further, many of the water front properties along the Bosphorus are closed until summer. During this period, I recommend just hopping on one of the ferries that take you from the European side to the Asian side. Inexpensive, and a good way to say you were in both.
Balik for lunch along the Bosphorus EAT: Here are some recommendations of places to eat. They are a compilation from places I ate at and places that were recommended to me by others who are from Istanbul or have been to Istanbul:
Ciya Kebap Lahmacun: best Southeastern Turkish food
Kebabs: restaurant Zubayair, close to Taksim Square. Sit next to the kebab meister (next to the grill) on the second floor.
Meze: restaurant Refik. Don’t miss anything that has eggplant, tomato, or fish. Even try the liver.
Sheesha/chaihane (called nargile in Turkey) Try the mint!
- Erenler Nargile, next to Sultanahmet (Blue) mosque. Great experience, cause mostly visited by locals, will transcend you into Ottoman times. Sheesha tobacco flavors to try: grapes, strawberry, mint. Besides original chai, and elma (apple) chai, don’t miss the mint chai. Super cheap, too.
- Ali Baba (at Tophane) – sheesha place, touristy ‘disco’ version, with pics of Abdullah Gul et al. Cool to check out (might combine it with Istanbul Modern Museum, nearby)
Fish
- Adembaba restaurant, in Arnavutkoy. Kind of a ‘people’s place’. Cheap, and really good fish. Locals, almost no tourists.
- Furreyya restaurant, close to Galata Tower. Good fish. Small place, nice chill-out also.
Kofte
- Selim Usta restaurant, in Sultanahmet. They serve kofte (minced meat balls-like), and lentil soup. That’s the whole menu, i.e. this is THE kofte place. Locals, almost no tourists (although in a touristy district).
- Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi: this workingman’s dive has remained hugely popular despite serving only two main dishes: meatballs and lamb skewers.
Deserts: Saray Muhallebicesi. An institution. It’s on Istiklal Caddesi, on the left side when walking from Taksim Square.
Borek
-Kitschy restaurant, forgot the name on Istiklal Caddesi, immediately on the left side of the street when walking from Taksim Square. Borek is served only in the morning. Be sure to try it fresh, and most important to try the one with cheese and parsley.
-Borek Center – also on Istiklal Caddessi, quite a walk from Taksim Square, almost to the end of Istiklal.
Workers’ cafeteria joint – Sahin (pronounced Shahin), next to Galatasaray School. It has only the locals, and this very picturesque cook, and the food is quite good. Not romantic to visit with your gfriend, but an interesting experience.
Café Mangerie - in Bebek, district of students and fancy cafes. Nice view from the top, good intl deserts.
Aslan Restaurant: across from Grand Bazaar
Bird: swankier Turkish restaurant
Midpoint: dinner at outside terrace.
Additional things to try: Doner kebab, Fresh squeezed juice, Salep: a thick consistency of hot milk topped with cinnamon.
CLUBS/BARS: I was lucky enough to be put in touch with a friend of a friend who is from Istanbul. He took my friends and me out with his friends so I didn’t go to any of these places and to be honest, I am not quite sure where we went. But these places were recommended by other locals and friends who had gone previous to me:
Anjelique: club on the Bosphorus. Call in advance, will probably have to book a dinner to be able to get in. Worth it. Note: dinner is upstairs, but clubbing is downstairs (easy to miss!). Guests are ‘European-looking’ Turks. All young, all rich, all well dressed, all good-looking. Girls are like models.
Reina: this club is a must during the summer. Call to check if the outside is open (if not, then leave for your next visit). On the Bosphorus. Clientele the same as
Anjelique, board with boats etc. Also probably need to book dinner to enter. Snobbish a bit, but definitely worth the visit.
Ulus 29 (pronounced ‘ulush’): club on the hill, sip your cocktail while overlooking the amazing panorama of Istanbul.
Ciya Kebap Lahmacun: best Southeastern Turkish food
Kebabs: restaurant Zubayair, close to Taksim Square. Sit next to the kebab meister (next to the grill) on the second floor.
Meze: restaurant Refik. Don’t miss anything that has eggplant, tomato, or fish. Even try the liver.
Sheesha/chaihane (called nargile in Turkey) Try the mint!
- Erenler Nargile, next to Sultanahmet (Blue) mosque. Great experience, cause mostly visited by locals, will transcend you into Ottoman times. Sheesha tobacco flavors to try: grapes, strawberry, mint. Besides original chai, and elma (apple) chai, don’t miss the mint chai. Super cheap, too.
- Ali Baba (at Tophane) – sheesha place, touristy ‘disco’ version, with pics of Abdullah Gul et al. Cool to check out (might combine it with Istanbul Modern Museum, nearby)
Fish
- Adembaba restaurant, in Arnavutkoy. Kind of a ‘people’s place’. Cheap, and really good fish. Locals, almost no tourists.
- Furreyya restaurant, close to Galata Tower. Good fish. Small place, nice chill-out also.
Kofte
- Selim Usta restaurant, in Sultanahmet. They serve kofte (minced meat balls-like), and lentil soup. That’s the whole menu, i.e. this is THE kofte place. Locals, almost no tourists (although in a touristy district).
- Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi: this workingman’s dive has remained hugely popular despite serving only two main dishes: meatballs and lamb skewers.
Deserts: Saray Muhallebicesi. An institution. It’s on Istiklal Caddesi, on the left side when walking from Taksim Square.
Borek
-Kitschy restaurant, forgot the name on Istiklal Caddesi, immediately on the left side of the street when walking from Taksim Square. Borek is served only in the morning. Be sure to try it fresh, and most important to try the one with cheese and parsley.
-Borek Center – also on Istiklal Caddessi, quite a walk from Taksim Square, almost to the end of Istiklal.
Workers’ cafeteria joint – Sahin (pronounced Shahin), next to Galatasaray School. It has only the locals, and this very picturesque cook, and the food is quite good. Not romantic to visit with your gfriend, but an interesting experience.
Café Mangerie - in Bebek, district of students and fancy cafes. Nice view from the top, good intl deserts.
Aslan Restaurant: across from Grand Bazaar
Bird: swankier Turkish restaurant
Midpoint: dinner at outside terrace.
Additional things to try: Doner kebab, Fresh squeezed juice, Salep: a thick consistency of hot milk topped with cinnamon.
CLUBS/BARS: I was lucky enough to be put in touch with a friend of a friend who is from Istanbul. He took my friends and me out with his friends so I didn’t go to any of these places and to be honest, I am not quite sure where we went. But these places were recommended by other locals and friends who had gone previous to me:
Anjelique: club on the Bosphorus. Call in advance, will probably have to book a dinner to be able to get in. Worth it. Note: dinner is upstairs, but clubbing is downstairs (easy to miss!). Guests are ‘European-looking’ Turks. All young, all rich, all well dressed, all good-looking. Girls are like models.
Reina: this club is a must during the summer. Call to check if the outside is open (if not, then leave for your next visit). On the Bosphorus. Clientele the same as
Anjelique, board with boats etc. Also probably need to book dinner to enter. Snobbish a bit, but definitely worth the visit.
Ulus 29 (pronounced ‘ulush’): club on the hill, sip your cocktail while overlooking the amazing panorama of Istanbul.
Sirince OUTSIDE ISTANBUL:
SIRINCE: traveling down to Izmir, we stopped at the small village, Sirince. The town looks more like a Tuscan village, with the rolling hills lined with vineyards, cobblestoned streets, and red colored rooftops. The town is known for its fruit wines. The streets are lined with wine shops that offer free tasting of all their wines. Wander in and start getting your share of fruit wines and olive oil.
KUSADASI: the travel agent put us up in a sea front hotel in the Aegean Sea port city of Kusadasi. In the summer, the town is overflowing with Europeans flocking to the beach towns. However, in February, with the majority of tourists gone, we got the pleasure of strolling the quiet boardwalk along the waterfront, enjoying the warm Aegean breeze.
SIRINCE: traveling down to Izmir, we stopped at the small village, Sirince. The town looks more like a Tuscan village, with the rolling hills lined with vineyards, cobblestoned streets, and red colored rooftops. The town is known for its fruit wines. The streets are lined with wine shops that offer free tasting of all their wines. Wander in and start getting your share of fruit wines and olive oil.
KUSADASI: the travel agent put us up in a sea front hotel in the Aegean Sea port city of Kusadasi. In the summer, the town is overflowing with Europeans flocking to the beach towns. However, in February, with the majority of tourists gone, we got the pleasure of strolling the quiet boardwalk along the waterfront, enjoying the warm Aegean breeze.
Hot spring of Pamukkale PAMUKKALE: meaning “cotton castle” in Turkish, Pamukkale is a natural site that contains hot springs and travertines, terraces of carbonate minerals left by the flowing water. Booked by our travel agent, we took an early morning 3 hour busride to Pammukale and Hierapolis. The place is a natural wonder and incredible to see…if they have the water turned on flowing that is.
We happened to be the “lucky” few to arrive on the day they blocked the water in order to clean the travertines. Because the water wasn’t flowing, the water that was left in the travertines was cold and unappealing to swim in during the middle of winter. During the summer, spring and fall, tourist will take their shoes off and walk down the carbonate minerals and sit in the mineral baths that are believed to have healing powers. Chilled from the frosty temperatures (the mountains surrounding Pamukkale were tipped with snow caps), we paid to enter the hot springs reserved for swimming. The springs were warm and felt good. Not sure if Pamukkale was all I thought it would be. I think the sight is a better choice for those visiting in the hotter temperatures and looking for a break from the beach and heat.
We happened to be the “lucky” few to arrive on the day they blocked the water in order to clean the travertines. Because the water wasn’t flowing, the water that was left in the travertines was cold and unappealing to swim in during the middle of winter. During the summer, spring and fall, tourist will take their shoes off and walk down the carbonate minerals and sit in the mineral baths that are believed to have healing powers. Chilled from the frosty temperatures (the mountains surrounding Pamukkale were tipped with snow caps), we paid to enter the hot springs reserved for swimming. The springs were warm and felt good. Not sure if Pamukkale was all I thought it would be. I think the sight is a better choice for those visiting in the hotter temperatures and looking for a break from the beach and heat.
The Library at Ephesus EPHESUS: an ancient Greek city and later a major Roman city on the coast of Ionia, Ephesus is one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League during the Classical Greek era. In the 1st century BC, it was one of the largest cities in the Mediterranean world with a population of over 250,000. Ephesus remains to be one of the best preserved ruins in the world, partly due to never being sacked despite all the wars going on around it. Your tour will include a tour through the ancient city as well as a stop at the House of the Virgin Mary where it is believed that Mary, mother of Jesus was taken by Saint John and lived until her assumption.
CAPPADOCIA: I didn’t make it here but this is the one spot in Turkey outside of Istanbul I would say DO NOT MISS. The town is famous for the topography of soft rock formations created by volcanic ash, which have created bizarre conical hills in amazing range of colors. Cave dwellings are carved into the rocks and hot air balloons take tourists up into the air to get an air shot of the incredible landscape. If you could only go to one place outside of Istanbul, I would say skip all else and go here. And here’s why: while the Turkish Riviera and the Turkish beach towns are beautiful and incredible, and Ephesus can be argued as a must see, you still have beautiful beaches all over the world and the ruins of the Acropolis and Coliseum are just as impressive as Ephesus. However, no where else in the world do you have the landscape and geography of Cappadocia. Go; stay in a cave dwelling; take a hot air balloon; enjoy the wines produced right from the vineyards that come out of the cone rocks; and have an experience like nothing else before.
Travel articles on Istanbul:
NY Times Travel
Conde Naste Traveler
Travel&Leisure
Wikitravels
National Geographic Traveler
Afar Magazine
Turkish delight: A sweet tour of Istanbul
Istanbul Eats
CAPPADOCIA: I didn’t make it here but this is the one spot in Turkey outside of Istanbul I would say DO NOT MISS. The town is famous for the topography of soft rock formations created by volcanic ash, which have created bizarre conical hills in amazing range of colors. Cave dwellings are carved into the rocks and hot air balloons take tourists up into the air to get an air shot of the incredible landscape. If you could only go to one place outside of Istanbul, I would say skip all else and go here. And here’s why: while the Turkish Riviera and the Turkish beach towns are beautiful and incredible, and Ephesus can be argued as a must see, you still have beautiful beaches all over the world and the ruins of the Acropolis and Coliseum are just as impressive as Ephesus. However, no where else in the world do you have the landscape and geography of Cappadocia. Go; stay in a cave dwelling; take a hot air balloon; enjoy the wines produced right from the vineyards that come out of the cone rocks; and have an experience like nothing else before.
Travel articles on Istanbul:
NY Times Travel
Conde Naste Traveler
Travel&Leisure
Wikitravels
National Geographic Traveler
Afar Magazine
Turkish delight: A sweet tour of Istanbul
Istanbul Eats
Read more:
| WHAT THE TRAVEL EXPERTS ARE RECOMMENDING: Eat: Albura Kathisma cafe Matbah: for the most authentic Ottoman cuisine. Ciya Sofrasi: one of Istanbul's first global chefs. Cercis Murat Konagi: on the Asian side, modern restaurant with outdoor seating and sea views. Stay: Four Seasons Bosphorus Do: Brunch on the Bosphorus. Shop for tiles at Iznik Classics |